Yerevan's best kept secret?: The Gök (Blue) Mosque

Yerevan's unique mosque is a surprisingly imposing religious complex covering more than 70,000 sq.ft of prime land in the Center of the capital. Being an Iranian mosque, it follows the Twelver Shi'ite branch of Islam, as Shi'ism was proclaimed state religion of the Persia by the Safavid Empire from the early 16th century and on. (Photo: SasunsyDavit)

The tiny Republic of Armenia never ceases to amaze and surprise the world with its vast cultural heritage and important landmarks disproportionate to its size. The landlocked country in the Caucasus in the Highlands of biblical Mount Ararat has an area of under 30,000 km.sq. with a population of around 3 million. Since the fall of the Soviet bloc in 1991 it regained its independence and now is being discovered by visitors and investors from around the Globe.

Understandably the capital Yerevan is the magnet attracting the new investments, developments and the lion's share of all the visitors who comb the country and are left amazed by the vast variety of natural beauties and the cultural heritage that the country has to offer. Yet, quite amazingly, one if the best kept secrets of Armenia's Capital Yerevan seems to evade most tourists, even many locals.

"So you stayed at the Marriott Hotel in the city center. Did you also visit the nearby Blue Mosque?", I would ask out of curiosity.

-"What mosque? There are no mosques we know of in Yerevan" is the most frequent answer I get.

Yet this big Yerevan mosque is right there, just a few hundred feet away from Armenia's "Point Zero", the epicenter of the country: the Republic square (Hanrapetutyan Hrabarag). Moreover, It is a pretty imposing and rather pleasing complex just a heartbeat away from the Opera or the Marriott. I have literally seen thousands of photographs of every relevant and irrelevant structure and site in Yerevan. Every little commemorative palque, statue, fountain, street corner is proudly photographed by the visitors, but I have never seen one photo of this proud Mosque.

No wonder people miss this unique mosque. It is right opposite the main popular produce market on the Mashdots avenue, but it is hidden almost entirely behind rather ugly apartment buildings that surround it completely (see map below).

Yerevan's unique mosque is nicknamed "Blue", surely because of the predominant color of the entrance and the exterior tiles. (Photo: SasunsyDavit)

This only surviving mosque in Yerevan is called the the Gök mosque (Blue or Sky Blue Mosque), known or Kapuyt Mezgit (Կապոյտ մզկիթ) in Armenian. It sits on an imposing 75,000 sq.ft of land, has an inner courtyard, meeting halls as well as a theological school (madrasa). The single brick and tile laden minaret towers over the complex.

The exact origins of the mosque may be little fuzzy, but it was certainly constructed to its present dimensions in around 1764 and completed within the same decade.The mosque is said to have been commissioned under the patronage of the local Governor or ruler Hussein Ali Khan. That was of course a period of yet another Persian dominion over the eastern Armenian territories after it was taken from the Ottoman Empire.  At the time Yerevan was a provincial town, probably with 20,000 inhabitants but was nonetheless influential, with the Armenian Apostolic Holy Seat at Etchmiadzin  just a short distance away. 

Yerevan and Eastern Armenia of course eventually fell under Russian influence and direct rule after 1827 and the Treaty of Turkmenchay, which gave Russia its modern zones of influence relative to Persia and Turkey of the day. This treaty came as a result of the Russo-Persian wars which resulted in crushing defeats for Iran. Turkmenchay is a town in the Azerbaijan province of modern Iran, where the defeated Persians signed and recognized the Imperial Russian dominion over the "Yerevan", "Nakhitchevan" and "Talish" Khanates (administrative provinces under the authority of a Khan). One of the the main results of the treaty was the establishment of the Arax river (Araz, Արաքս)  as the recognized boundary between Russian zone of direct influence and Iran. This is still true today, as Arax forms the actual borders between Azerbaijan and Iran and southern Armenia.

                                     (Click on photo to enlarge for details) 

Yerevan: The Persian mosque called the Gök Jamii (Blue  Mosque) can be seen as the black dot 24 in the center. Note how it is pretty much hidden by all the surrounding Apartments despite its central location. It is only one block away from the Hanraptutyun (Republic) square, the "Point Zero" of Armenia (at the center right in yellow). Marriott Yerevan, formerly "Armenia" hotel is the number 22. Next up is the Ministry of Foreign affairs.

According to some reliable sources, there were around 10 functional mosques in the Yerevan region before the arrival of the Russians. These mosques were eventually abandoned or demolished except of course the Blue Mosque. During the Soviet era, this mosque suffered the same tragic fate as most of the churches in the deeply christian tiny country of Armenia. The communists implemented extreme secular policies, forcibly closing churches and putting all religious institutions under heavy pressure. The Blue Mosque was of course no exception and was in pitiful condition as well during these communist dark ages. After the fall of the Soviet Union the mosque underwent radical and somehow controversial restoration with funding provided by the Iranian Government. Some critics argued the restorations were not truthful to the original spirit of the mosque.

The very intriguing question as to why the Yerevan Blue mosque is surrounded from all sides with apartments buildings and thus literally hidden from view except a rather modest entrance on the Mashdotz avenue?  The first logical explanation would be to assume that there was a certain bigotry or conspiracy on the part of the Armenians to ''neutralize'' the Muslim Mosque from general view. In fact the encirclement of the mosque by apartment buildings is almost complete. But it is very safe to say that there was no "foul play" involved on the part of the Christian Armenians. On the contrary, care was exercised to include the whole complex in the new block without any architectural "dissections".

Armenia's capital:  Yerevan in the shadow of the snow-capped heights of Mount Ararat, where it is said Biblical Noah's Ark landed escaping the Great Flood. Yerevan's modern urban plan is most obvious with this aerial view. The Ararat mountain with its two peaks has always been at the very center of Armenian history and identity and is sacred to its people. Today it lies in Turkey, just across the border. Alexander Tamanian drew the modern Yerevan city plans (bottom)

The simple explanation of the mosque's bizarre encirclement is that Yerevan underwent a major urban plan during the Soviet times. The city center was completely overhauled and redesigned, just the same way say Baron Haussman transformed central Paris arteries during the 19th century. Renowned architects (especially Alexander Tamanian) undertook the major task of modernizing Yerevan and the new general plan was executed (see Yerevan city map above for the modern design). Therefore the Blue mosque happened to fall in the middle of a new grid or block and was surrounded by new buildings along the new avenues. The blue Mosque was preserved.  In any case, destroying it would have been both stupid and criminal.

Yerevan's best kept secret?: The apartment buildings completely encircle the mosque and make it almost impossible for an outside passer-by to see it, even from the major Mashdots or Khorenatsi avenues. Yet this mosque is a joy to see, appreciate and pay a visit.

When I discovered this mosque while trying to find a shortcut from the Mashdotz avenue to my hotel in the mid nineties, the exterior was being repaired by at least six workers albeit with rather primitive methods and equipments. The pace of the works seemed very slow albeit continuous. The mosque is presently functional and is an important meeting point for the local tiny Muslim population and expatriate students studying in Armenian Universities.

Is the Yerevan Blue Mosque a masterpiece in Persian Shiite Islamic architecture? Not so by any stretch of imagination. However it is a historical place of worship that deserves a visit, a photo or two and all the care the Armenian people and Government can give to this unique mosque of the Capital.

The recent referendum in Switzerland imposing a ban on the construction of minarets next to the mosques was a sure indication of the needless and somehow understandable but unnecessary and often ridiculous clashes between these two great monotheistic religions: Islam and Christianity. In this late Swiss episode many protest voices were heard, but similar attitudes of intolerance and exclusion exists all around the world. In Saudi Arabia, for instance, existing churches do not even look like actual churches from the exterior. No crosses are allowed, no visible signs such as stained glasses or statues. Same story on a lesser extent in Kuwait City, where the main Church next to the Sheraton had no cross as not to insult the locals. In some of these these countries the construction and maintenance of any Christian worship place faces more hurdles than the erection of the Great Wall of China!

The landscaping around the perimeter is a disaster, yet seemingly "normal" and somehow acceptable for that part of the world. Fortunately, the "exotic" charm of this mosque is not lost. The brick minaret with staggered patterns is typical of Persian-Mesopotamian traditions.   

The Saudis, for example, have imposed a series of non surmountable pre-conditions effectively banning any church constructions. At the core of all this is their insistence that the Catholic church in particular somehow "recognize the prophet Mohamed", even though unclear in what exact capacity. Such conditions are vague and poisonous. Essential human rights and the freedom of all people to practice their  faith freely must be beyond any ridiculous restrictions from all sides. The same is true to the Muslim communities that may suffer unnecessary conditions, harassment, discrimination and exaggerated sets of rules and regulations here and there. 

In this day and age when religious intolerance is growing like a cancer both in East and West, the World deserves more positive winds of openness, goodwill and a minimum of tolerance. Armenians have had major issues with peoples acting in the name of Islam. Armenians have suffered immensely and have paid the ultimate price of abuses perpetrated against them in the name of religious correctness. This is the reason why the recent restoration and the preservation of this Blue mosque in the middle of Yerevan should serve as an example of tolerance and respect towards minorities to others. Armenian churches are crumbling both in  Turkey and even in Christian Georgia (Capital: Tbilisi), where the central government has to come clean and act responsibly towards its minorities.

In any case, it is very clear that Yerevan is a richer place with this Blue mosque than without it.

The Blue Mosque mosque complex from the back oozes Persian architectural forms, even though not in its purest forms. The finishing is rough, but functionality and cost cutting consideration obviously have prevailed. The  Yerevan mosque should not be confused with the Blue Mosque of Istanbul, the incredible "Sultanahmet" with its six minarets, an architectural masterpiece of the highest order. Another famous "Blue mosque" of course is in Tabriz (Iran) which was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1779 and only recently mostly repaired.

Minimalistic approach: The interior of the Yerevan Blue Mosque is beautiful in its simplicity yet lacks the "wow" factor. No interior tiles or typical Islamic calligraphy in this part. The Mihrab (the niche in the wall indicating the direction of Mecca) and the Minbar (the pulpit with stairs for the Imam's sermon) are very simple and functional. The carpet has patterns marking individual worshipers allocated floor space and prayer direction.

 

 Yerevan, Armenia circa 1672, then till under Persian suzerainty until 1827. It was a provincial city. In early 20th century and during the Armenian genocide of 1915 thousands of refugees and survivors found refuge there and eventually it became the Capital of the First Republic of Armenia proclaimed in May 28, 1918. It has remained so since and today it has an estimated population of 1.2 million. 

©Krikor Tersakian, Dec. 2009

Editor's notes:  

• Note: Armenia has very rich historical monuments and can be regarded as an open air museum. Day trips from Yerevan can take the visitors to almost all destinations. Armenia was the first nation to adopt Christianity as a state religion in AD 301. Thousand year old churches, Stone crosses (Khatchkars) and other monuments are there to be discovered and awe any visitor. Since the fall of the Soviet Union it is an independent state again and an emerging democracy. Three sites in modern Armenia are included on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, having outstanding universal value and meeting the tough selection criteria. Links to the UNESCO website:


• Monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin
  
  


• Cathedral and Churches of Echmiatsin and the Archaeological Site of Zvartnots


• Monastery of Geghard and the Upper Azat Valley

Photo: Geghard or Keghart rock-carved monastery

Karahunge: The Armenian Stonehenge

Karahunge is a very unique and almost unknown megalithic site in Armenia that may have had a much bigger regional influence than previously thought or understood. Research and understanding of its mysteries are incomplete. The promotion and preservation of the site are nonexistent. 

The Stonehenge is a marvel of the ancient world, situated in the Salisbury plain west of London, England. It is the most famous megalithic site on earth and fully deserves its fame by the sheer size of the stones and their incredible technique of construction for their age. Like other similar sites all around Europe, it was sacred place for meeting, praying, burial, observing the celestial movements and praising the supernatural and the mystical.

The very venerable Stonehenge is in a sense unique in the world, but it may owe a big debt to an obscure Armenian megalithic site called the Karahunge. Quite simply, Karahunge and Stonehenge have identical names: KaraHunge / StoneHenge.

"Kar"means "Stone", in Armenian, and "Hunge" (Հունչ/Հնչել) means "Sound" or "Buzz". Amazing but true, Stonehenge may owe his name to the much older Karahunge site in Armenia. It is a striking and incredible similarity, to say the least, for two prehistoric and very distant sites.

The Karahunge observatory at full functionality! The sight is primitive, rough compared to some other megalithic sites but still very romantic, pretty and mysterious.

Here are some theories: "Hunge" or "Henge" (as in Stonehenge) has no clear meaning in English or its preceding languages although some suggest it may mean hinge, as is the door hinge. Some theories claim that Stān means "stone", and either "hencg" meaning hinge (because the stone lintels hinge on the upright stones) or "hen(c)en" meaning "hanging". It is a fact that the upper horizontal tier of the Stonehenge stones sit in hidden pointed parts of the vertical stones as if acting like anchoring and stabilizing hinges. But the name Stonehenge itself may be much older than the introduction of the word hinge into modern day England.

Still one can not explain how Karahunge/Stonehenge have got identical names. It seems unlikely that it is just a simple coincidence, and all this enigma makes for a very curious and intriguing case of these megalithic sites. Karahunge (Քարահունչ) is thought to be 7500 years old while its English homonym Stonehenge is around 3500 years "younger" at 4000-5000 years (depending on the successive long construction period of the stones).

Karahunge vaulted tombs called "dromos" and "cromlechl": Naturally these tombs are completely empty since a very long time. God knows who and what was buried there thousands of years ago...

Moss and lichens covered Karahunge stones. These specifically angled carved holes were most certainly for astronomical observations and rituals. The holes may be much "younger" than the stones themselves, judging from their rather clean and non weathered shape.

Karahunge, or what remains of it, is made of rather small basalt stones. The present shape of the stones is almost random and the overall effect less than tremendous but still pretty impressive. But, lest we forget, Stonehenge is 3500 years "younger" than Karahunge and we all know what that means in terms of progress in human history. Let's look at the last 35 years to understand the impact of 3500 years!

Karahunge literally translates as "Stones with Voice" or "Stones that have a Sound". It is also known as Zorats Karer (Զորաց Քարեր) in Armenia, that could be translated as "Powerful Stones" or the "Stones of the Powerful". Both these names are currently used, but the official name remains Karahunge. The site is situated at an altitude of 1,750 meters, near the town of Sisian, 220 kilometers south-east of the capital Yerevan. It is located on a rocky promontory, a prominent mass of land or hill which overlooks lower lying land and therefore easier to defend. The nearby town of Sisian (Սիսեան) is a small provincial agglomeration of under 20,000. It is situated at the narrowest point of Republic of Armenia proper sandwiched between Artsakh-Karabagh and Naxichevan (see map below).

.

Karahunge is situated just north of Sisian, on the narrowest region of Armenia proper sandwiched between the Armenian autonomous region of Artsakh- Karabagh to the east and the Azeri Naxichevan. Note that ''Xankandi'' on the map actually refers to Stepanakert, the Capital city of Artsakh

Karahunge was mainly used as a large necropolis from the Middle Bronze Age to the Iron Age. Huge stone tombs are found there and around, dating from these periods. Later, possibly in Hellenistic-Roman times, it is thought to have served as a place of refuge in times of social unrest or attack. A defensive wall of rocks and loam was built, and vertical rocks were used for reinforcements. Of this city wall only the upright standing rocks still remain (see photo below).

The remaining rocks of the original Karahunge defensive city walls. Note the numbering of the stones.

Karahunge site today is made up of hundreds (some say 223 in total) of vertically standing basalt stones of which 84 stones. The total territorial area is approximately 7 hectares. Many of these stones have smooth angled holes of 4 to 5cm in diameter, the angles of the holes being directed at different points on the horizon and outer space. The age of Karahunge has been estimated to be 7500 years or older (VI millennium BC). It is believed that the main deity celebrated there was Ari, the main prehistoric Armenian God of the period, as well as possibly other lesser Gods.

A festival of colors and reflections: Each stone is marked with its number in a bizarre and primitive form of paint identification probably from the Soviet days. Some pointed stones may have been a focal point with its narrow tip to reflect light on other nearby stones.

We shall underline that in no way we are implying that Karahunge may be as "important" or impressive as Stonehenge as a megalithic site. That is not the case, nor the issue. In fact, some of the Stonehenge stones are up to 7m and weigh 50 tons and mostly brought from specific quarries in Carmarthenshire in south west Wales. The distance from Carmarthenshire to Stonehenge is more than 110km, and the way these giant stones were moved to Stonehenge by land and sea is still a mystery and an incredible human accomplishment by itself.

Karahunge is more modest in sheer size, but it surely deserves a lot of interest. It is somehow unknown even among the general Armenian population and it rarely figures in brochures or books. We do not have official statistics, but the number of visitors to Karahunge is probably insignificant. The tourist accommodations near the site, the appropriate landscaping, signage and documentation are almost nonexistent to encourage more visitors. A site pretty much abandoned despite a new dynamic and flourishing tourism industry in Armenia. 

Similar prehistoric megalithic stone structures exist all around Europe and beyond from Sweden to Russia. Menhirs, Dolmens, burial mound and barrows, Cromlech (stone chambers), and other types of prehistoric structures are highly appreciated everywhere they are found . Most of these sites are Neolithic (New Stone Age) 5000 BC and Bronze age 3000-2000BC and younger. In its style and form, Karahunge seems closer to another English megalithic site at Avebury, not far from Stonehenge. But somehow it is the famous Stonehenge that shares the same name with Karahunge which lies almost 4000km away, in a remote mountainous region in the Armenian Syunik (Սիւնիք) region!

Karahunge "Ghost Town": a panorama worthy of a scary Hallowe'en movie.


Karahunge may or may not have given his name to the Stonehenge, but this issue may turn out to be more than just speculation. Some (but not enough) scientific research has been done in Karahunge, but the gathered information and knowledge are far from being complete or satisfactory. A lot more research is needed in order to unlock the magnitude of Karahunge's regional influence and details about these Armenian ancestors who built it some 70 centuries ago.

Is Karahunge and the nearby other bronze age sites a priority in the conversation efforts in Armenia? The answer of course is a "No". Countless churches, monasteries and Stone Cross Khatchkars are in rather pitiful conditions too and need immediate attention. Karahunge seems to be at the bottom of the "To Do" or rather "Forgotten" list.

Stonehenge in Wiltshere, England is surely one of Britain's and the World's greatest icons. Since its construction some 5000 years ago, it has symbolized mystery, power, worship and endurance.Most probably it was a pagan a temple made for the worship of ancient deities, and a sacred burial site and an astronomical observatory. Like the nearby Avebury site, Stonehenge is a U.N.E.S.C.O. World Heritage Site of the "Highest order".

Karahunge is unique to the region, and is worthy of much more attention and care than its present state of total abandon. It deserves a minimum of effort, recognition and restoration from both the Armenian and the International communities, specialized agencies and Foundations.

Unfortunately, I doubt that anything of substance will happen anytime soon.

Note:

I modestly dedicate this article about Karahunge to all Armenians around the World who courageously preserve their identity and their very old and unique culture. If these 7000 years old rocks are any indication, History and Culture are built over a long long period of time. And we all carry the burden to protect them against all odds and challenges.

© Krikor Tersakian Oct.13, 2009

First Anniversary of Georgia's bloodied nose

Georgia's ill fated attempt to reclaim South Ossetia and Abkhazia was a total disaster. Was it wrong advice from "friends" or just an Indiana Jones style adventure from Tbilisi? Russia did not lose time to crush the over optimistic Georgians and practically annex South Ossetia and Abkhazia. Click on map to enlarge.

August 7-8, 2008 were memorable days.

The whole world was glued to the TV sets for the stunning opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics. The "Bird's Nest", or the Beijing National Stadium had become the epicenter of the world.

Yet on practically the same day, the tiny Caucasian state of Georgia had launched massive attacks on the secessionist South Ossetia province, directly challenging Russia. The timing of the Georgian attack was very bizarre and intriguing: A major offensive within a few hours of the Beijing Olympics opening ceremonies? What was going on and who was really pushing for such a suicidal showdown?

The Georgian government claimed it was only responding to the constant shelling and intimidation from South Ossetia and was forced to send in its tanks to retake the rebel-held regional capital Tsikavali. Tbilisi wanted to swiftly reoccupy South Ossetia, but this large scale offensive was bizarre both in its timing and the ultra optimism about its possible success. Moscow did not find all this funny and the Russian Bear got ready to pounce back, and it did.



Georgia's tensions with Russia and the two breakaway regions have always been high since the collapse of the Soviet Union, but they became even higher ever since Mikhael Saakashvili came to power on 25 January 2004. The new President was determined to move Georgia much closer to the Western sphere and out of the Russian zone of influence, as if Russia did not exist next door. Georgia demanded the closure of all Russian military bases on its territories, put itself firmly in the Western camp, established supposedly very close ties with the "Oil and Gas obsessed" Bush administration and even applied to join NATO as a full member state: this was the ultimate insult to Russia.



Georgia's anti Russian stance since the fall of the Soviet empire was amplified by the training of the Georgian troops by some 170 NATO military advisers and were supplied with Western military fatigues and some military hardware. The Georgians obviously came to have a highly overestimated and distorted image of their new military might and political support from the forces opposing Russia. And that proved to be a fatal miscalculation.



Mr Saakashvili was also eagerly waiting for the day he would try to bring a military solution to the Ossetia and Abkhazia problems and restore Tbilisi's authority over these regions once and for all, just like he had successfully done in Adjaria-Batumi in 2004. (Important to note that Adjaria has no common borders with Russia, an crucial fact in Georgia's military success).







The message from this Russian soldier to the Georgians is finger clear. The picture is of a Russian convoy on the battlefront. The Russian easily crushed all forms of organised Georgian armed resistance.





Moscow's response was pretty swift, with mounting pressure to destabilize the Georgian Government through South Ossetia and of Abkhazia, which both share long borders and close ties with Russia. Moscow claimed to be under the obligation to defend the Russian citizens of these provinces and moved towards the recognition of these regions as "independent". Just like the West had acted to recognize the legitimacy of Kosovo's Independence from Serbia. Therefore the rationale was straight forward:If the West can recognize a separate Kosovo, then why not recognize independent Ossetia and Abkhazia? Georgia called all these developments as "shameless land grabs", while Moscow called them "self determination of these freedom seeking Russian citizens".



The war between the two looked inevitable, but few expected Saakashvili to send in his troops first! The ant attacking the elephant type of a mismatch.



In any case, something went wrong with president Saakashvili's entourage, when he decided to force a war. He had indeed timed this military attacks to coincide with the Olympics despite the claims otherwise, but that looked a bit like a medieval military strategy. Countries used to attack enemy states when the other King was away for a while on a hunting expedition in the remote woods or attending a prince's week long wedding festivities...



Vladimir Putin was in fact in Beijing when the news of the attacks broke out, but he did not waste any time to fly to the conflict zone and assume direct control of the events and assume the driver's seat. Within a few hours Moscow had already moved in. The Russian army recaptured South Ossetia and the tanks were on their way to Gori, into Georgia proper. The Russians soon cut the main road linking the capital Tbilisi to the ports on the Black Sea. All significant military and strategic sites in Georgia were bombarded and the country's fragile infrastructure heavily damaged or simply occupied. The Russian Black Sea fleet imposed a total maritime embargo. Poti and the nearby town of Seneki were taken. Russian troops reached the outskirts of Tbilisi and established checkpoints. The Tbilisi international airport was shut down, while the military airfields of Marneuli and Vaziani were heavily bombed.



Like in most wars, the civilian populations paid the ultimate price, as tens of thousands were ethnically cleansed and expelled from their homes. More than 400 people lost their lives, thousands injured and many more lost their homes and were unfortunately displaced.

A Georgian woman holding her baby cries over her damaged home in Gori, Georgia, just outside the breakaway province of South Ossetia Aug. 10, 2008. (David Mdzinarishvili/Reuters)









Georgia was practically fragmented into pieces and Tbilisi government was reduced to a mere scared spectator's role, hiding in underground shelters and arranging for the occasional candlelight press conferences to the media.



Naturally the war affected the whole region. Landlocked Armenia was deeply affected, as that neighbouring country's main supply and transit routes pass through Georgia and Poti's harbour in particular. The security of Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan pipeline was also endangered, which made some people in Washington very nervous!



Same story in Abkhazia, where the secessionist forces took total control of all the disputed territories and expelled the collapsing Georgian regulars from the disputed and highly strategic Kodori Gorge (see map). They reasserted their absolute independence from Tbilisi and reaffirmed their strategic alignment with Mother Russia.



The short war turned out to be very ugly, a brutal lesson in regional "real-politics". Moscow was in no joking mood and sent a very loud and clear message: "Do not mess with me in my own historical backyard, and that includes the Caucasus". The same message to NATO was also crystal clear: "Better know your limits, because we are going to set them in any case!"



The war ended in August 17, and by that time there was not much left to fight for.



Either Tbilisi was badly misled by its over enthusiastic patrons and allies, or it had decided to adopt a fatalistic "It's now or never'' type of cow-boy approach to re-establish its authority over south Ossetia and Abkhazia. The jury is still out, but the real reasons for such adventurous approach were probably a mix of the two scenarios.





Who looks more scared: Georgian President Saakashvili or his bodyguards?

Note the use of NATO sub-machine guns as opposed to the classical Russian AK-47s, as part of Georgia's deliberate "Western" image remake.







The war was indeed short and very unequal. The total capitulation of Georgia was not surprising. Rather more surprising was Moscow's swift and determined response as well as the lack of any tangible support from Georgia's supposed allies in the West. Tbilisi's flirtation with NATO and especially Washington was exposed to its bare bones and Saakashvili had nowhere to hide. Moscow could have taken him down along with his government, but chose to spare his life and not to topple the Government. Tens of thousands of Georgian refugees were not as fortunate as their well spoken but obviously so wise president. They are still suffering today.



As a result, South Ossetia and Abkhazia became even more independent than before. The Georgian army will need years to rebuild itself and its credibility as a viable fighting force. The country's infrastructure was heavily damaged and a huge humanitarian problem. Not many positives for Georgia.

Most observers blame Saakashvili for this catastrophe. The United States and NATO could not do much except for sending couple of warships with "humanitarian aid'' to support the victimised Georgian brothers. Tbilisi's government was reminded something most seventh graders around the world would know: You do not mess with Russia in his own backyard, otherwise you will get a very bloodied nose, crippled arms and an amputated leg or two.

Georgia cried foul and blamed the separatist movements, but her own treatment of Georgia"s minorities does not inspire much confidence. The very sorry state of the Armenian minority in the southern Javakhk-Akhalkalaki region is another serious case of concern. Tbilisi needs to have a hard look in the mirror before formulating any kind of accusations of separatism toward the want away minorities. Javakhk’s Armenians face almost systematic discrimination, their churches confiscated and converted, schools forgotten and the region's already archaic infrastructure abandoned. There is a state of total desolation and neglect of Javakhk's socio-economic situation, in a concerted effort to alter that province’s ethnic composition and assimilate the population into "mainstream" Georgian.





President Serge Sarkisyan of Armenia greeting his Georgian counterpart in Yerevan. Saakashvili assured that he is sparing no efforts to improve the treatment of the Armenian minority in Georgia, but concrete results are scarce. Some felt that Armenia gave the Georgian President too much respect he did not fully deserve. Armenia is landlocked, badly needs Georgia for most external trade and transit and suffered huge financial losses because of the war. The borders with Turkey and Azerbaijan are closed due to embargo and conflict.





So what was the mystery behind Georgia's ill-fated adventures? Were there promised political as well as military support which failed to materialize? Did Saakashvili think that his western education, fluent English language skills, media savvy approach and CNN-friendly sound bites would be enough to stop the Russian tanks from crushing his troops and destroying his country?



Now Saakashvili can certainly kiss goodbye to South Ossetia and Abkhazia, both firmly attached to Russia. His very risky poker move backfired and his allies and advisers did not have a plan B to rescue him from losing face and territory. On the eve of the war's first anniversary, a NATO spokesman in Brussels even announced that "Georgia is not yet ready for NATO membership", an admission of total failure.





Both NATO and Uncle Sam were reduced to marginal observers while Putin was firmly in the driver's seat.





Even American vice president Joseph Biden's recent address to the Tbilisi Parliament could not mask the plain and painful truth. Financial aid to reconstruct Georgia may pour in from the West but that is not enough to stop Russian tanks or retake lost territories. There are definite limits of what Washington and NATO can accomplish in the Caucasus. All the flag raising ceremonies, bonfires, candle vigils marking the first anniversary of the war will not do much in terms of getting South Ossetia and Abkhazia back.



As Elton John would sing:



It's sad, so sad,

It's a sad, sad situation,

And it's getting more and more absurd.

Oh it seems to me that sorry seems to be the hardest word.

© Krikor Tersakian,  Aug 5, 2009

The strategic importance of the Black Sea

"The battle of Sinop, 1853": Russian navy destroying Ottoman ships on the Black sea. Imperial Russian navy destroyed Ottoman eleven Frigates and Corvettes anchored in the harbor. It was the start of the Crimean war. (Painting by Armenian seascape painter Hovannes Ayvazovski) The Black sea has always been less ''sexy'' than its bigger and more important neighbour, the Mediterranean: Less prominent, more marginal and less understood, especially in the West. The strategic importance of the Black sea is easily underestimated despite its huge importance . The very heterogeneous countries that occupy the shores of the Black sea are a sure indication of its importance. Since pre-historical times this sea has played a pivotal role in the European as well as Asian history. Endless cultures and civilisations have thrived, ruled, colonised and disappeared from its shores. Hittites, Scythians, Thracians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Persians, Genoese, Venetians, Tatars, and various Slavic and Turkic tribes can all trace all or part of their history. This vast region has seen a constant movement of tribes, armies, protected trade routes and political powerhouses. And that is not changed a bit today.

Satellite image of the Black sea and the larger Mediterranean. The sea of Marmara links the two through the Bosporus and Dardanelles (Canakkale) staits.

The Russian Empire has always aspired and fought hard for a secure and easy access to the ‘’warm’’ waters, that is the Mediterranean. The North Sea and the Baltic are too disconnected from the Mediterranean world and the Suez canal. Therefore the Black Sea was the natural body of water that could provide them such important access and influence. The various conflicts and wars between the Russians and the Ottomans are a sure testimony of that strategy.

In recent history, the fault lines of the Persian, Ottoman and Russian Empires were vaguely along or near the shores of the Black Sea. During the cold war, the East and the West were also locking horns over these bodies of water. The Mediterranean being firmly in the N.A.T.O. fold, while the Black sea was a bastion for the Soviets and allied navies. The passage of the Bosporus and the Dardanelles as well as the Black sea itself have been the theater for infamously fierce and absurdly tragic wars between various powers near and far. In antiquity, the most famous battle surely is the Trojan wars. Troy is located just at the mouth of the Canakkale (Dardanelles) strait leading to the Marmara and eventually the Black sea. The Crimean War (1853-186) as well as well as the Russian-Turkish war that followed (1877-78) were directly for the control of the Black sea and the competing influence of these nations over the area. At that time even the western powers of Great Britain and France were directly part of the conflict, initially to curb the Russian appetites vis-a- vis a crumbling Ottoman Empire.

The Black Sea as seen from the at the edge of the Bosporus (Anadolu Kavagi village) These above mentioned wars were very bloody, but probably the single bloodiest and most famous of these apocalyptic wars was Galipoli /Dardanelles straits campaign during the WWI (1915-16). It was fought between The German/Turkish alliance and the mostly British -Australian-New Zealand forces, again for the control of these strategic routes and access to the Black sea. This war resulted in up to 500,000 killed and wounded. The Turks did not surrender and that bloody campaign made Mustapha Kemal (later Ataturk) a rising hero. Some would argue that the Black sea is rather large internal lake connected to the Mediterranean through the sea of Bosporus, the sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles. It is a much less salty sea than the Mediterranean and the oceans. Its rather fresh water surface and the ore salty bottom rarely mix resulting in particularly peculiar see plankton of dark colour making the water look dark or 'Black': hence the name. The area of the Black sea is of over 435.000 km2, which is about 14 times the Republic of Armenia or 40 times Lebanon. This huge body of water is of course shared by many countries: Turkey, Georgia, Russia, Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria. Moreover, the ‘’autonomous’’ breakaway regions of Georgia, Adjaria and Abkhazia are also located there.

It is very interesting to note that none of these countries have their Capital city or a really major other city on the shores of the Black sea. The major cities or state capitals such as Kiev, Sofia, Bucharest etc are inland, far from the shores. Was this caused historically by security issues to avoid attacks and vulnerability? (Istanbul's northern suburbs on the Bosporus barely touch the Black Sea).

In any case, the strategic importance of the Black sea is here to stay. Landlocked countries like Moldova and Armenia depend on it even with no direct access. It is estimated that 80% of Armenia's maritime trade passes through the port city of Poti on the Georgian shores. Russia and Ukraine have been squabbling over sovereignty of chunks of the seashore, as the bulk of the ex Soviet navy is stationed there, including areas claimed by Ukraine as her own.

Russian and Ukraine Commanders aboard Russian navy ships during celebration of 225th anniversary of Black Sea fleet on May 11, 2008 in Sevastopol. Russia's Black Sea Fleet is present in Sevastopol under a lease that expires in 2017. The "arrangement" is a frequent source of tension between Russia and Ukraine. Turkey holds the most important strategic access key and is heavily reliant on the trade. Immense prosperity is generated by the traffic flowing between the Mediterranean and the Black sea. Turkey does have the strategic upper hand, but it can not ignore international treaties. The most important of these is the Montreux Convention Regarding (signed 1936) the Regime of the Turkish Straits. Montreux gives Ankara relative control over the Bosporus and the Dardanelles Straits, both of which fall totally within Turkey. Military activity and movements in the whole region are closely monitored which of course includes the only access to the Black Sea. Turkey has military control over the Straits but also has to abide by and enforce the restrictions and regulation on the passage of warships belonging to all other nations. Montreux Convention guarantees the free passage of civilian vessels in peacetime but severely restricts the passage of non-Turkish military vessels and prohibits some types of warships including aircraft carriers from passing through the Straits. The terms of the convention have always been contested by some nations, most notably the ex Soviet Union (and now Russia). Russia needs easy passage to the Mediterranean sea and beyond for its Black sea based merchant and military fleet. The various restrictions imposed by the Montreux Convention are somehow seen as restrictive by Moscow. But these same restrictions also help control any western military presence in the Black sea, Russia's backyard. The Icon and the Bikinis: Over-enthusiastic Russian women greeting the returning Russian warships after their victory over Georgia (Sevastopol navy base, Ukraine) ! After all, the Black Sea remains a mostly ''Russian'' influence zone, while the Mediterranean is the ''West''. The traditional zones of influences remain little changed, even if the Cold War is supposedly over. A good illustration of this division of zones happened in 2008 during the Georgia-Russia armed conflict over South Ossetia. Georgia got crushed by the Russian army after being given false hopes and assurances by the West. After that military debacle and as a token of "solidarity'' to the beaten Georgian government, the Bush administration sent a sole American warship to the destroyed Georgian port of Poti. Washington could hardly afford to do much more to help Tbilisi than timidly send a "hospital" battleship to distribute some goods and candies. So much for direct American influence in the Black sea. But the same can be said for the Russian fleet in the Mediterranean.



Family Picture: The heads of states and representatives of the Black Sea Economic Council (BSEC) countries and observers. (2007 conference, Çiragan palace, Istanbul).

On 25 June 1992,the Heads of State and Government of eleven countries: Albania, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece, Moldova, Romania, Russia, Turkey and Ukraine signed in Istanbul the Summit Declaration and the Bosporus Statement giving birth to the Black Sea Economic Cooperation (BSEC). Serbia also joined in 2004 while Cyprus and Montenegro were vetoed out!

The BSEC came into existence as a ''unique and promising model of multilateral political and economic initiative aimed at fostering interaction and harmony among the Member States, as well as to ensure peace, stability and prosperity encouraging friendly and good-neighbourly relations in the Black Sea region". Very noble and idealistic!

If the past is any indication, the Black Sea region badly needs all the help it can get to preserve some kind of long lasting peace among its bickering and infighting member states...

© Krikor Tersakian, Montreal, Canada